Although its kin can be found on most continents, the traditional weaving technique of chitiki or ikkat is an important skien in the identity of the newly formed state of Telangana. The one product that epitomises the complexity, skill and beauty of this tradition is the telia rumal, made of cotton yarn naturally dyed in maroon, white and black. Like other such weaves that are time- and skill-intensive, telia rumal is fast disappearing from the shelves. Only a handful of weavers are now privy to the intricacies of weaving this textile, which derives its name from the faint smell of oil and the sheen in the finished product. Septuagenarian K Narsimha of Koyyalagudem village in Nalgonda District is notable among them.

Narsimha started weaving more than half a century ago at the age of 16. He has since been associated with the handloom co-operative in Koyyalagudem and worked for over two decades as a tie-and-dye trainer, first with the Weavers Service Centre in Hyderabad and later with the Hyderabad-based NGO Dastkar Andhra. He was recently honoured by the Delhi Crafts Council with the Sutrakar Samman.

While the looms fall silent elsewhere, Narsimha continues to weave a story of hope for the telia rumal.

(Pankaj Sekhsaria is a writer and photographer based in Hyderabad)

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