Hill towns in the Indian subcontinent have the reputation of going to sleep early. Shops close and shutters come down one after the other with a rattling sound as the sun goes down, and streets are deserted by dinner time. The murmur of the crowd fades into the echoes of barking dogs. However, the capital of Bhutan is an exception to this ridge-rule — more so on the weekends.
Thimphu is no New York or Bangkok, but it can take you by surprise. It strikes you especially when you have travelled from a megapolis such as Delhi, where the nocturnal activities are mostly confined to private spaces, where people keep to themselves in the big cars they drive around.
On weekends, downtown Thimphu transforms into a vibrant public space, but without disturbing the disciplined fraternity who go to bed early. There is a clandestine vibe to this nightly revelry that takes place only in basements. This life reveals itself to those who are aware of its whereabouts and are a regular on the circuit, or tourists who have wandered off to discover the underbelly of the city.
The scene is so full of energy that even a drizzle cannot dampen high spirits. Young boys and girls run around the streets, and gather in the downtown amphitheatre. They can be found doing vaults and jumps with earplugs on, listening to hip-hop while they do so. Dressed in either leggings or baggies, they appear cool and immersed in their own subculture, as they hop pubs and clubs.
The city remains alive well past midnight. Nightlife is accompanied by food typical to the night. Vendors sell momos and fried rice, noodles and paan till late. Grocery stores stock local beer and wine to keep up fuel for this adrenaline rush.
Sreedeep is a fellow at C-PACT at Shiv Nadar University