Travelling in the mountains can be backbreaking, but all the pain was forgotten once I reached Tawang valley in Arunachal Pradesh. Arunachal — covered with impenetrable rainforests — is a natural wonder. It is home to endemic birds and animal species and an umpteen number of lakes, but that’s not all. There are 26 major tribes in Arunachal who still live in harmony with nature, preserving their culture in a fast-changing world.

Around 13 per cent of the population is Buddhist, a direct influence of its neighbours — Tibet, Bhutan, Myanmar and China. Tibetan Buddhism has the greatest influence on the Dirang Monpa tribes. Most of Arunachal’s Buddhist population resides in Tawang, in the West Kameng region. These remote areas are close to Tibet near the Myanmar border. The people practise both jhum (shifting cultivation) and settled cultivation, and domesticate yaks, cows, sheep and pigs. The cattle and yak are reared for milk and meat.

The Apatani tribe, known for their facial tattoos and gigantic nose pins, is arguably the most advertised in the state. With changing times, the younger generation no longer adopts these practices. The tribe is equally well-known for its production of fish from paddy fields.

I was fortunate to spend an extended period of time in the hut of an Adi Minyong, a warrior tribe, in Boleng. A typical Adi house is made of bamboo, and raised on stilts. Every part of the Adi house has a specific name and a unique function. Since they live in areas with inhospitable climate, their houses are made to withstand the fury of nature. They usually have space on the ground floor for pigs, which are fed on human waste — talk of zero waste! The one skill the Adis have mastered above all is the building of bamboo bridges.

Crossing one of these bridges over the gushing Siang river is thrilling, but my hands were nevertheless shaking as I attempted to photograph a family that was trying to cross over.

Deepti Asthana is a Mumbai-based photojournalist

 

Global footprint: The Adi people are also found in Tibet and recognised among the 56 ethnic groups of China. Seen here is the Tawang festival, a three-day annual celebration

Knick-knacks: The older women of the Adi tribe wear yellow necklaces and spiral earrings

Homegrown: There are over 26 major tribes in Arunachal Pradesh. Members of the predominant Adi tribe perform a synchronised war-like dance

Clan rules: The traditional measure of an Adi family’s wealth is the possession of land, domestic animals, beads and ornaments

Crowning glory: Men belonging to specific regions wear unique helmets made of cane, and bear and deer skin, an important symbol of their past

Heavens above: The majority of Adi traditionally follow the tribal Donyi-Polo religion, which is closely associated with natural elements such as the sun and the moon

Do-it-yourself: The Adi people have built many bamboo bridges and are known for their architectural skills

Pastoral life: The Adi practise wet rice cultivation and have an agriculture-based economy

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In solitude: The Tawang monastery is an important place of worship for Buddhists in India. Many in the Adi community have converted to Buddhism
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