A border town between two countries. Had it not been for a magical river that runs by it, Dawki, in the West Jaintia Hills district in Meghalaya, would not merit a longer or more colourful description. For Umngot is not just a river. It could easily be the cleanest river in India.

It is not just the absence of pollutants and garbage. Umngot is crystal clear, with emerald green waters. It comes with a surface that’s as still as the waters are deep. The boats moving across the river, appearing like little matchsticks from the edge of the cliffs above, seem to be gliding in space. Umngot remains green through the year, except in summer, when it turns somewhat muddy. And you can look right into the river, which is at least 15 ft deep. The town is also not too far from Mawlynnong, which calls itself Asia’s cleanest village. This also means that Umngot is no stranger to tourism. Anyone who visits Mawlynnong hops over to Dawki for a boat ride along the Indo-Bangladesh border.

Keeping the place clean — and plastic free — is a task that the locals, mostly members of the Khasi tribe, take pride in. They love fishing in the river but won’t allow nets or the use of chemical baits. Tourists are welcome, their garbage is not. There is little or no tolerance to the noise that the world associates with the Indian traveller.

Ritu Raj Konwar

Stay in: People depend on tourism for their livelihood; tourist camps on the banks of the Umngot

Catch up: A tourist poses with a borali (of the catfish family) caught by a boatsman

Ready, steady: A Khasi man and a woman devote a day to fishing in the river. The Khasis depend on the Umngot for fish

Calming effect: The boats seem to glide on the water

Fresh takes: A tourist enjoys a splash in the Umngot at Dawki; in the background is a suspension bridge that connects the Jaintia Hills with the Khasi Hills

Tread softly: Tourists gear up for a boat ride. Mawlynnong, which calls itself Asia’s cleanest village, is only about an hour from Dawki

In preparation: Country boats await the arrival of tourists. The river borders Bangladesh

1 / 0
Lens view: The clean waters of Umngot allow for an experience similar to watching underwater life through a glass-bottom boat