The tiny Caribbean islands of Trinidad and Tobago come with big surprises: a fountain of youth or the Nylon Pool, where Trinbagonians warn against staying too long, or you’ll emerge a baby. The miraculous waterbody was formed from a natural hollow in a reef and is therefore rich in antioxidants, which can help swimmers wipe away the years, just not so drastically. Possibly the only acoustic instrument to be made out of industrial waste — garbage cans, oil drums and biscuit tins — the steel pan was born in Trinidad & Tobago. Originally a symbol of rebellion against the colonising Brits, who had banned their sticks and drums, playing the pans is now almost synonymous with ‘limein’ or hanging-out with friends. And it was on these isles that I paid homage to one of the world’s largest statues of Hanuman, a towering 85-ft sculpture that seems to be watching over the country made up of immigrants from India, Africa and Europe. Yet, my most fascinating experience was visiting the home of a couple who share space with hundreds, sometimes thousands, of hummingbirds.
Yerette is an Amerindian term for the hummingbird, said my guide Nyasha Spence. She explained that the hummingbird haunt, in the sleepy Trinidadian suburb of St Joseph’s, wasn’t always one. The beautiful hilltop home belongs to Theodore Ferguson (or Theo), an agronomist, and his wife Gloria. An avid photographer, Theo’s passion for clicking birds in flight made him put up feeders in his garden to attract the hummingbird. The beakers filled with sugar and water attracted the iridescent creatures, but nobody imagined the large numbers they would flock in. Given the enormous aerial-traffic on their approximately 800 sqft garden — anywhere from 700 to 3,000 birds a day — Theo and Gloria decided to open up their home to bird-lovers, for a small fee. And with that tale, Nyasha had me sold.
As I entered Yerette, I found a barrel-chested, 60-something man on the porch whose stance spelt, ‘Don’t mess with me’, while his T-shirt screamed, ‘World’s Greatest Grandpa’. This was Theo. We — I had 15 other visitors as company — took our seats on the porch that overlooked the garden, looking more attractive with the light mist hanging in the air. Hummingbirds flitted past our ears, zipped right in front of our eyes, and almost grazed us gently, as Theo introduced us to the species with fun facts.
“Did you know that hummingbirds can flap their wings up to 200 times per second?” said Theo to the wide-eyed group. More facts come tumbling out: they lay the smallest eggs among birds; the bee hummingbird is the smallest bird in the world, at just 2.5 cm in length; their daily consumption of sugar has to be half their body-weight; they have no sense of smell, but a keen eyesight; they rid their surroundings of mosquitoes. Also, recent research concludes that simply watching the feathered creatures keeps depression at bay.
We set out into the garden to try and tell one species from the other. Out of 17 types of hummingbirds found in Trinidad & Tobago, as many as 13 are regulars at Yerette. Theo pointed to the many ruby-throated hummingbirds that flitted from one branch to another. Also present were the green-throated carib, the blue-tailed emerald, and the golden-tailed sapphire, among others. It wasn’t a ‘hummingbird shower’ at Yerette — Theo uses the expression to describe days when thousands of birds descend upon his garden — but the medley of colours and sounds was otherworldly.
Gloria’s home-cooked meal, full of earthy flavours, brought us back to the earth. Seated in the living room, we relished pumpkin soup, fresh salad, a variety of breads, piping hot dasheen (also known as taro, it is a tropical vegetable) and a mildly spiced okra dish. We washed it all down with fresh orange juice, lemonade and a sorrel-based cooler.
When I finally managed to look away from the garden, I noticed that the house was full of hummingbird photos. All taken by Theo. Even the restroom was decorated with bird portraits. And I couldn’t help but wonder about the pitfalls of a lawn full of birds. Anyone who has had a pet parrot knows the perils, starting with having to scoop up the droppings. In an open space, this would imply round-the-clock cleaning of lawn-chairs, and putting up with the stench. But Theo clarified, “Hummingbirds only excrete water.”
So, they brighten up the surroundings, bring with them a feeling of serenity that can chase the blues away, and yet leave no trace behind. Considering that all they need is sugared water, hummingbirds really do make the perfect guests.
TRAVEL LOG
Getting there : There are no direct flights from India to Trinidad & Tobago. Fly Mumbai/Delhi/ Chennai to London/Miami/New York, and onward to Port of Spain (island of Trinidad).
Stay : The Hilton Trinidad Hotel & Conference Centre ( www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/trinidad-and.../hilton-trinidad.../index.html ).
Sightseeing : Yerette: Tours take place three times a day; cost $25 per head, inclusive of coffee and a meal; visits are by appointment only; e-mail: hello@yerette.com For an all-island trip, hire Sensational Tours ( sensationaltours@gmail.com ).
BLink Tip : Trinidad & Tobago enjoy mild, pleasant temperatures through the year. To avoid the monsoon, visit between December and early June.
Kiran Mehtais a Mumbai-based journalist