Hola, San Juan

It wasn’t until the autumn of 1995 — when singer Ricky Martin’s Maria took the world by storm — that most Indians first heard of Puerto Rico. A cluster of islands spread out in the North Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, it became a place to talk about after the Latino pop star’s arrival on the international music scene. It was then that many found out about its beaches, nightlife, art scene and cuisine.

A part of the Spanish empire for more than five centuries, Puerto Rico became US territory under the terms of the Treaty of Paris in 1898 — following the Spanish-American War. It is, however, not a US state, which means that its citizens cannot vote in its general elections.

Imprints of Puerto Rico’s Spanish history are prominent in San Juan, the colourful capital. Old San Juan — the city’s historic centre — is where this is most conspicuous. It is peppered with colonial-era mansions, art galleries, tree-lined plazas, fortresses and museums. And a generous sprinkling of cafés and restaurants ensures a steady supply of good food, music and corners for people-watching. There are also curio shops and markets.

Here are some of Old San Juan must-dos.

Visit the forts

Old San Juan has two imposing forts — Castillo San Cristóbal and Castillo San Felipe del Morro. Centuries old, Fort San Cristóbal was constructed by the Spanish. Counted among the largest in the US, it has an impressive moat, a maze of tunnels and ramparts from where you can admire the Caribbean Sea.

Furthermore, Castillo San Felipe del Morro also comes with stunning views of the blue expanse. Its expansive gardens are a popular picnic spot for locals.

Fresh catch: Punto de Vista Rooftop Restaurant, Old San Juan, makes a mean mofongo with shrimp

Treats and more

The Spanish influence has transcended the boundaries of architecture to enter the Puerto Rican kitchen. There are also traces of the American and the Taino, an indigenous people of the Caribbean. If nothing else, try these four dishes: mofongo (mashed plantain), arroz con dulce (sweet sticky rice), arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas, vegetables and meat) and mallorca (croissant).

Visit Cafeteria Mallorca for a Puerto Rican breakfast of coffee, and, well, the best mallorca . Punto de Vista Rooftop Restaurant makes a mean mofongo with shrimp. Gorgeous views of the Caribbean Sea and Old San Juan are enticing side dishes. Other popular restaurants for authentic Puerto Rican include Marmalade Restaurant and Wine Bar and Barrachina (a plaque outside proclaims it to be the birthplace of the pina colada, the cocktail made with rum, pineapple juice and coconut; it is Puerto Rico’s national drink since four decades).

When the night is young

Puerto Ricans know how to let their hair down and have a good time. Just a night out at Old San Juan is enough to acquaint you with their fun quotient. By sundown, the colonial buildings here are twinkling with lights from bars and lounges. Start at La Factoria, the salsa bar that shot to international fame after being featured in the music video for Despacito (2017), sung by Puerto Ricans Luis Fonsi and Daddy Yankee. For more salsa, move to El Batey. If salsa is not your thing, try the Bacardi Rum Factory close by. If your idea of fun rests away from the bottle or the dance floor, you can enjoy the night by taking a two-hour walking tour — covering places where Hollywood films have been shot, the best fast food joints and historic buildings.

Culture cocktail

Old San Juan is a paradise for art enthusiasts, with numerous old-world galleries, quaint museums, and elegant shops. Among the most beautifully conserved galleries are Galería Botello, Age Art Gallery and OBRA Galería Alegría. Old San Juan is also where clusters of boutiques sell works of local artists. Outside galleries and shops, there is enough art to admire — graffiti on the walls of brightly-coloured colonial buildings. You will also find plenty of couples and their wedding photographers outside some of the villas. La Fortaleza, the governor’s official residence; La Casa Blanca, the home of the first acting governor, and Catedral de San Juan are fine examples of architecture in the city.

Pallavi Mehra is a freelance writer based in Mumbai