A common adage in Assamese “ Nasibo najane, sotaal khon beka ” — translates into “The floor is always crooked for the inept dancer”. Hyper-local sayings like this have a way of encapsulating, or even foreseeing, the predicaments of the cultural landscape they come out of. So it is for Assam: It is true that the lack of ‘speed’ (speed of development, of implementing policies, of following up on promises) has been a hindrance to the State’s resources. But, borrowing ‘speed’ and technology blindly can have serious consequences. Therefore, one not only has to dance well, but also have the local knowledge to cope when the floors are not favourable, so to speak.

This line was very much on my mind as I took in the sights and sounds of Rongali, a festival organised by Assam Tourism at the Khanapara Veterinary Ground (in south Guwahati), on February 3-5. Promoting the legacy of diverse cultures is one of Rongali’s stated aims. Assam is looking to aggressively promote tourism. Recently, Priyanka Chopra was appointed the State’s brand ambassador for tourism, a move that proved to be controversial (especially when Chopra confessed she hadn’t travelled much outside of Guwahati). Then there was the business of the ‘Awesome Assam’ video featuring the African two-horned rhino instead of the indigenous one-horned one. I was heartened, therefore, to see eager young men and women put their game faces on at Rongali, and fight the odds to promote their respective wares on the banks of the Brahmaputra river.

In an effort that brought diverse communities to a common platform, people from Bodo, Mishing, Karbi Dimasa, Sonowal Kachari, Deuri, Tai Phake, Thengal Kachari and other tribes participated with gusto. Each one showed off its distinct lifestyle. Having made imitative disposable houses from eco-friendly sources, they discussed the unique features of these structures. For instance, the Dimasas and the Mishings, who call their traditional houses Noh-dima and Sang-ghor respectively, use bamboo, wooden posts, hay and truss to build the same. Their mastery of this indigenous science of construction is remarkable. One cannot find even a single piece of wire in these houses, I was told.

On the second day of the festival, about 120 participants from Lower Assam had come for the traditional boat race at Dighalipukhuri, a popular man-made pond in the heart of Guwahati. Organised in association with Assam Traditional Sports & Dragon Boat Association, this event drew sizeable crowds, with a good mix of the young and the old. Shyamkanu Mahanta, Rongali’s organiser-in-chief, said, “At Rongali we are trying to familiarise this age-old sport through promotion and marketing, like how Kerala has promoted boat racing.” As the participants used their oars expertly, they sang songs intimately associated with their folklore. Traditionally, these songs told the stories of Krishna-Arjun, Ram-Sita and Rani Phuleswari. Though boat racing events are usually organised on Hindu festivals like Janmashtami, people from all religious communities participate. It is a sport that defines Assam’s syncretism.

Locals from Barpeta, Sarthebari, Sualkuchi, Chayygaon and Hajo (where this sport is a huge hit) are yet to get economic support for a sport they are so passionate about. Speaking on this matter, the captain of Chayygaon Maa Kali Nau Dal, a women’s team, said, “As women from marginalised areas, we did become vessels of laughter (for rowing). But it’s an art form that comes naturally to us. Nobody has trained us with the river. Though financial help or any training from the State is rare, we still made it to the National Games.”

If traditional boat racing is to survive, equal attention must be paid to the boat makers. The art of boat making is rich and diverse, a legacy traced to the time before the Ahom dynasty came to Assam. Villagers offer tremendous support, according to Sahabuddin Ahmed, a boat maker from Hajo. Various boats are known by these names: Bar-Nau, Selengi Nau, Paanshoi, Jaap Nau and so on. Racing, boats are made in the Paanshoi shape to ensure swiftness.

Aero sports have also taken off in Assam. The aero sport zone at Noonmati, Sector 1 (that was used by Rongali as well) has seen crowds increase over the years. Many youngsters in the State are now excited about adventure sports like parasailing, microlight flying and paramotoring.

Hemraj Bora, general secretary of Aerosports Association of Assam, said: “One can fly for only six to seven months in the State, as in the summers it is unsafe. There needs to be a maximum of 10 kts wind, which is usually considered a favourable condition. Since new people are curious about this, there is tremendous potential for aero sport sites to develop as future tourist spots”.

It’s a good sign that Bora and company are taking the tourism cause seriously. However, they have to ensure that they do not sacrifice common sense to gain the momentum they seek. Several environmental factors need to be considered. More festivals means more people in and around riverfronts and that means more litter. Every year, the amount of disposable waste in and around waterbodies has been increasing. This is bound to cause ecological changes; open areas around riverfronts are susceptible to cluttering. If festivals like Rongali are to make a meaningful difference to the State’s fortunes, they ought to remember this well.

Rini Barmanis a Delhi-based independent writer

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