Chiang Mai, Thailand, is known for its bustling night markets with handcrafted silver jewellery, embroidered shoes, and even rip-offs of Western designer brands. On previous visits, I’ve managed a brand new wardrobe at a steal. But if you don’t need more clothes or bags, you can socialise with the locals instead. Head to the nearby villages to talk to the members of the long-necked Karen tribes, who will welcome you into their homes and serve you khao soi , a chicken broth topped with noodles, a fried egg, and a variety of crunchy, spicy condiments. Or visit the sub-district of Saluang, where women help you loom a colourful sarong or a beautiful scarf.
I, however, choose to do a third thing: Visit a traditional tattoo parlour in the quaint town of Lamphun, not far from the city of Chiang Mai. The credit for this visit goes to my Airbnb host, Nikom, a former monk, who helped me put aside my stock ideas about tattoos.
Even before I enter the
With Nikom as his translator, Sompong harks me back to the time of Southeast Asia’s Khmer dynasty, when these tattoos gained popularity. But the story begins at home. Buddhism emerged in India in the fifth century BC. As the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama spread to other parts of Asia, the philosophy merged with existing religions and beliefs, including shamanism and paganism. Historians believe that the
These tattoos reached peak popularity under the powerful Khmer dynasty. As the empire conquered more territories, soldiers in large numbers went off for war. Before heading to the battlefield, they sought blessings, and a hint of magic, from the monks. The bhikshus tattooed the soldiers’ bare skins with symbols that were said to channel the powers of four elements — earth, fire, water and air.
As a visitor walks in for a tattoo, Sompong demonstrates the technique: He uses a large steel rod with a needle-tip, dips into the ink, and, with a steady hand, begins to sketch a pattern on the skin. He explains that in days gone by, the rod was made of bamboo and sharpened to a point. The ink is made of substances found in nature: Charcoal, plants such as indigo, spices (turmeric) and so on. Or if you prefer an invisible tattoo — you can’t see it but you’ll still reap the benefits — Sompong can emboss a pattern in oil.
The patterns determine the powers. Sompong says, “The circle stands for the face of Shakyamuni; the triangle stands for the ‘Three Gems’ (Buddha, Dharma, Sangha); a squiggly line represents the meditating Buddha, and so on.” Most are a combination of these and other geometrical designs. A ferocious tiger made of squiggly lines is a favourite with Muay Thai boxers and is said to grant strength, protection and success. But it comes with certain rules: Once you get the tattoo you must never sip intoxicants from another’s glass; doing so will lead to aggressive tendencies. Other schools of thought advise giving up alcohol once you get a yantra tattoo.
A fire-breathing dragon shields you from the evil eye. But Sompong warns, “You must learn to control your thoughts too; wishing ill on others after being inked will not grant you any protection.” The five lines tattoo — seen on Hollywood star Angelina Jolie — is said to grant five magical properties. It rescues the bearer from unjust punishment, nullifies the effects of a bad phase in life, spares one from curses, attracts good luck and the attention of the opposite sex. Little wonder that this simple design is among the most sought-after patterns.
Sompong relays stories of clients who came back to thank him after their fortunes changed with just a dab of ink. But he reminds us not to be enamoured of the magic; not to miss the moon while chasing the stars. “This is just a means to god. Remember, the ultimate goal is the Buddha,” he concludes.
Kiran Mehta is a Mumbai-based journalist