Adding a spring to his step

There was a time not too long ago when between a pair of sneakers, formal black leather lace-ups and well-worn flip-flops, the average urban male considered his shoe wardrobe complete. Sneak a peek into his shoe rack today, and you will find the unabashedly well-groomed man has become “well-heeled” to boot. He sure knows his moccasins from loafers and monkstraps from lace-ups, with a shoe-obsession that could well rival that of the Sex and the City fashionista Carrie Bradshaw.

Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh, who designs clothes and leather footwear for men, agrees. “Indian men are pursuing more than just the essential, especially in the domain of footwear. The quality of material used, the way it is constructed, the fit and the aesthetic are being given increasing importance and are of concern,” says Singh.

The suit makes the man, it’s said, but the shoe has a big role to play as well. Formal shoes can make or break a good suit – and as the well-travelled Indian male learns from his jaunts abroad, a decent pair of shoes is worth the investment. But the days of having to wait for a trip abroad to shop are long over. Brands such as Louis Vuitton, Ferragamo and Gucci all stock enough footwear in the men’s department to satisfy every need. Labels such as Bally and Tod’s, which are renowned for their exquisite leather footwear, have also set up shop in India.

The holy grail of high heels are the classic red-soled Louboutins. The brand recently set up its India flagship store in Mumbai and has a section for men.

Italian brand Corneliani, famous for its tailored sports jackets, also makes leather footwear. Prem Dewan, Retail Head in India, believes that the Indian luxury consumer today is also a global citizen who is well aware of the latest trends. Dewan says the monkstrap shoe, for example, is one of the brand’s best-sellers because of the marked international preference for this pattern. Clearly, it is not just women who suffer from the occasional bout of shoe envy!

International labels that are not retailing officially in India are also available through multi-brand stores such as Kitsch and La Scarpa. Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent (better known by its previous name – Yves Saint Laurent), D – Squared and Artioli are just some of the brands whose shoes are available – and selling like hot cakes – in India.

According to an ASSOCHAM study, the luxury products market in India is all set to grow despite the economic slowdown, with a projected leap of 25 per cent to hit about $15 billion (₹80,325 crore) by the year 2015. A big slice of this would be luxury accessories, including leather goods, such as shoes. According to Dewan, the luxury footwear market in India is estimated at ₹300 crore in value terms. Men’s shoes account for about half of this segment.

Dhiraj Bathija, CEO of Heel & Buckle, a London-based multibrand shoe store that recently opened in Mumbai, says, “The luxury footwear market is an extremely niche segment.” With most players catering to the luxury lifestyle segment and men’s footwear only accounting for a portion of the business, the size of this segment is understandably limited, he says. Bathija estimates it is worth about ₹100 crore annually and grows at 10-15 per cent.

When it comes to marketing strategies, most luxury brands prefer a more subtle approach, leaving it to celebrity endorsements and word-of-mouth to work for them. Similarly, for men’s luxury footwear, there are no advertisements in print or on hoardings because their target audience is already aware of the brands.

However, even established brands are taking to social media to cement their presence in the public eye, giving aspirational buyers a chance to eye their products. Not everyone will walk into a Louis Vuitton store to admire the window displays, but ‘liking’ a picture of the Glass Dome Loafer from the brand’s new collection is an easier option. Between Twitter accounts, Facebook pages and fashion bloggers, brands have taken to the Internet to reach out to followers, and reel in more customers.

That the rupee prices of some of these shoes start at five-digit numbers and reach the cost of a small car do not seem to be deterring any shoe fanatics from splurging. With expensive materials, designs meant to balance style and comfort and the obvious logos and labels that let them show off a bit, it looks like these shoes are definitely here to stay.

Heel & Buckle’s Bathija says the men’s luxury footwear segment is all set to see significant growth. But he also believes that there is a space in the market, between high-street brands and luxury fashion houses, where ‘affordable luxury’ thrives, and that it is yet to be tapped. This is the segment he has set his eyes on, bringing lesser known brands such as Magnanni and Rad Russel to India with his store.

Indian men definitely seem to be looking everywhere for their perfect “ sole-mate”, and it’s going to be a worthwhile hunt!