The process of making cloth with colour cotton is facing teething problems, though some textile mills are showing interest.
“An understanding almost materialised with the Khadi and Village Industries Commission but talks between them and University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, got stuck over royalty,” said Dr Shreekant S. Patil, senior cotton breeder of the Dharwad agricultural varsity.
The Dharwad varsity did not agree to the royalty terms during talks.
“Some textile mills are showing interest but so far, no progress has been made,” said Dr Patil.
However, other problems such as growers reluctance fearing opposition from fellow-farmers over contamination are also cropping up.
The University of Agricultural Sciences has perfected growing cotton that is not genetically modified, with natural dark brown, light brown and green colour after almost a decade's research.
During a session on ‘Cotton value chain benefits and traceability' at Nuremberg in Germany two weeks ago, the issue of colour cotton was discussed briefly. The panel on the dais was asked about why colour cotton was not catching up despite reports of better yield than Bt cotton and successful experiments in making cloth.
“Some farmers fear that colour cotton could contaminate nearby fields and hence there could be opposition from fellow-growers. It is one of the reasons why there is some reluctance,” said Mr Arun Ambatipudi, General Secretary of Secunderabad-based Chetna Organic Farmers Association.
“No doubt, brown cotton is popular but the green one is yet to become popular,” Mr Ambatipudi, who was on the dais, said.
According to Goan fashion designer, Mr Wendell Rodricks, designers would be reluctant to go in for colour cotton. “Fashion and preferences change frequently. Therefore, we would not be wanting to go for it,” he said. Mr Rodricks uses Malka cotton that is spun on the field itself.
A Swedish designer said fibre strength of colour cotton was suspect. “ Remember Sally Fox? Fibre strength was the problem with it,” the designer said. Sally Fox of the US had come up with coloured cotton in 1982.
Mr Mani Chinnaswamy, Managing Partner of Pollachi-based Appachi Cotton, said that coloured cotton had to be grown in an isolated area. “When we were given the seeds to grow, we were told to grow it in isolated places so that farmers growing regular cotton will not be affected,” he said.
“Unless and until someone takes up growing colour cotton, there will be scepticism. Once someone comes forward and takes it up, things could change,” said Dr Patil.
“Again, we are careful in giving seeds to growers. We will give seeds only to an organised group of farmers and they need to have a tie-up with a textile mill before we can consider giving the seed and the know-how,” said Dr Patil.
If some textile mill comes up with a worthwhile proposal along with a group of farmers, the Dharwad university will consider providing full support, he said. The varsity is also looking at extension workers to take the lead in popularising colour cotton.