There was this joke about the kudiyetta karshakar (settlers from Travancore) in Malabar. The title of the joke: Athellaam angu naattilalliyo (Everything is far, far better back in my native village!)

A settler goes to the grocer’s store and buys mustard for a dime. He thinks the seeds are tinier than what he used to get from the grocer in his village in Travancore. “Back in my village, the mustard seeds are as big as elephant eggs,” he rues.

He then goes to a tea shop and thinks there is too little milk in the tea served. “Back in my village, they make one cup of tea out of two cups of milk,” he sighs. “What to do? Athellaam angu naattilalliyo… ”

Half a century ago, when communication and transportation facilities were scarce, the ‘settlers’ in Malabar were like the Pravasi Malayalis of today. Poor and hard-working, they went north from their dear Travancore looking for greener pastures. They were carpetbaggers who felt uprooted from their land and culture. They often looked down upon the people, lifestyle and culture of the villages where they settled down.

And, their nostalgia for the home village and disdain for their adopted villages are reflected in the jocular phrase: Athellaam angu naattilalliyo…

PRAVASI ONAM

For the Pravasi Malayalis (non-resident Keralites or Norks), the Onam season is the time to gloat over and feel nostalgic about their home State and childhood days. Whether in the Gulf, in the US or in Europe, they celebrate Onam with deep personal involvement. In a way, the Norks’ Onam is much more deep and passionate than the Swadeshi Onam.

This correspondent, who has attended Onam celebrations organised by Malayali groups in several US cities as well as in Germany and Switzerland, found that the joie de vivre of Onam can only be felt abroad. On the day of the celebration, which could be several days earlier or later than the real Onam festival day, everybody becomes an archetypical Malayali. It’s a day for exchanging fond memories, gloating over Kerala’s culture and traditions, badmouthing the ‘loose’ culture of the country they live in, and feeling a little superior about one’s past. The athellaam angu naattilalliyo spirit takes over.

A few years ago, while attending an Onam party in a city in Maryland in the US, this correspondent was amazed by the scale of the celebrations and the efforts put in by the local Kerala Samajam. Hundreds of people – men in mundu and shirt and women in ‘set sari’ – showed up. Many women wore jasmine flowers in their hair, and men wore chandana pottu .

There was a pandal in the auditorium in the centre of which a huge pookkalam was laid out and a large nilavilakku stood shining. Old Onam songs and P. Bhaskaran’s film lyrics were playing out. There was kathaaprasangam , mimicry, thiruvaathirakkali and even a chenda melam . The feast was typically Keralite – down to the banana leaves in which the meal was served. But the most interesting thing was this sideshow: a pennu kaanal arranged by the Nair Service Society unit! The boy had flown in from Dallas.

KERALA ASSOCIATIONS

In the US, as well as in most other countries, the Onam celebrations are organised by the Kerala Samajam or the Malayali Association. In fact, the main activity of these groups is holding of the Onam celebration. Often, the annual meeting of the association is held as part of the celebrations. The election of a new leadership team also is held simultaneously. Of course, the saying that where there are five Malayalis, there are six Malayali associations is close to the truth too.

Since the Nork population in the Gulf countries runs into lakhs, there are hundreds of Kerala associations there, very often named for the village, panchayat or taluk the members come from. There are also religious and caste groupings of people coming from the same panchayat or taluk. But Onam celebration is a priority for many of these organisations.

While some celebrations are held in large upmarket hotels or auditoriums, others are held in small desert tents, at construction sites and inside unfinished building complexes.

But wherever the Onam party is held, for the Pravasi Malayali, Onam is a day to feel great about his/her home State.

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