Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013 - Review

Five days of fashion frenzy, also known as the annual Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive, took place in Mumbai last week, giving all fashion lovers a renewed sense of purpose in life.

Revisiting ethnic

The Winter/Festive shows saw a lot of designers reinterpreting Indian ethnic wear, while some others chose to simply take a spin on the classics. The week started off with couturier Manish Malhotra’s collection that was named ‘Reflections’ and saw the designer’s pre-bridal collection that was inspired by old-Indian aristocracy, but with a much more toned down colour palette. From pale shades of green, beige and icy blue to more sombre mustard, brown and deep reds, the collection seemed to get the festive vibe going right from the start. The fine detailing and delicate embroidery and threadwork that are a trademark of Malhotra seemed to be all over this collection as well, albeit with the addition of mirror work and classic Kashmiri zari.

Other designers who got on the ethnic team is the saree-lovers new favourite, Hyderabad based designer Gaurang Shah, whose Patola-inspired line had the look of instant classics. For his showstopper he chose an old fan, Kiron Kher, who walked out looking quintessentially like herself in a patola sari, heavy silver jewellery and beaming all along.

New trends like the ghagra-inspired pant from Krishna Mehta, whose collection showcased on Indian textile day at LFW was inspired by Manipuri handlooms, and used their textiles and weaving techniques. With rich colours and tribal weaves in silk, wool and even tweeds, her collection stood out for the beautifully structured clothes as well as for the unique weaves. Nikhil Thampi’s black and gold dominated collection, with its unusual Kathakali-inspired motifs, was a fusion of styles, punk-meets-ethnic if you will, that saw classics deconstructed to a sexier version of itself. Whether it’s the kimono-lehenga, the dhoti-style skirts with thigh high slits or the edgy saree with the pallu in a knot and a studded belt to keep it in place – the collection definitely made us rethink the classics.

Sabyasachi, whose show ended the five-day fashion extravaganza, also did his bit for the rethinking of indian ethnic wear, teaming his half-and-half satin and lace sarees with striped, t-shirt blouses, and he made it work in a way only he can! A deconstructed churidar, women in high-collared kurtas very similar to what the men were sporting, velvet and lace – taking vintage elements and give it a contemporary twist, the collection redefined the festive wardrobe for the season.

Get with the trend

But not all designers went the ethnic way, and some redefined contemporary style in their own way. A standout collection from up and coming designer Sailex was sheer eye candy, with jewel tones and perfect fits making a statement on the runway. Inspired by the Far East, the collection was all about looking classy and feeling sexy, with luxe materials like crepe and satin dominating. The colours were perfect for the season with peacock blues and fuschia dominating in a collection that’s sure to be spotted on many a red carpet.

Prints continued to dominate this season across runways from Ranna Gill’s Mauritius-inspired (and sponsored) line that saw beach wear with some funky palm trees, sunsets and island prints to Sneha Arora’s vintage military themed line that saw photographic prints of soldiers in black and white dominate her collection that was aptly named ‘ A Soldier’s Story’. Ken Fern’s trees and bird prints were seen throughout his ‘Moon Rise’ collection, with the monochromes pieces making special impact while Nikhil Thampi’s Kathakali prints took on an ethnic vibe.

Jatin Varma went for the dramatic as he unveiled his line of gowns, crediting the Garden of Eden and Paradise as his inspiration. Nylon mesh and crochet binding were his material of choice, for dresses that were given a structured flounce and plenty of peek-a-boo fabric to create a look that was definitely inspired by fantasy.

Dhruv Kapur’s DRVV line, inspired by “imbalances and asymmetries”, was saw a variety of textures and materials – from georgette to jersey – come together to create pieces that ignored convention and yet managed to feel wearable and real.

Priyadarshini Rao redefined boho-chic with her ‘Caravan Serai’ collection that cited Persian, Afghan and Indian influences and laid claim to all the “globe-trotting fashionistas”. Well, globe-trotting or not, her collection of maxi dresses, blouses and structured skirts in a vibrant range of colours (dominated by indigo) with print-on-print featuring predominantly. Definitely a collection for the traveller, with all the multi-cultural influences.

‘Handloom Couture’ is the latest word to be added to the fashion dictionary thanks to the Indian textile day at this year’s Winter/Festive show. From Ritu Kumar’s Himalaya-inspired range of weaves to Rahul Misra’s collection made with handlooms from Central India, Krishna Mehta’s ode to Manipuri Handlooms and Gaurang Shah’s tribute to the Gujarati Patola – the classic indian weave has found favour once again.

From giving newcomers a chance at the Talent Box to showcasing some indian heritage on textile day, the LFW was quite eventful. But here’s what you can take away from the week – rethink your ethnic looks, a saree can be so much more if you let inspiration have its way! And hold on to your jumpsuits and palazzos, they’ll be around for a while but invest in a crop top (And the figure to pull it off) and remember – not all that glitters is gold – it’s could always sequins and metallic.

>elizabeth.mathew@thehindu.co.in