A jungle treat

For those under the illusion of Rajasthan being only a vegetarian’s paradise, the delectable meat preparations of the State have to be sampled at the Taj Palaces, both in Udaipur and Jodhpur. At Umaid Bhawan, a romantic dining experience awaits at the Sunset Pavilion, the brainchild of the present Maharaja Gaj Singh. Guests are taken to this surreal place from which you can see the entire blue city of Jodhpur, through a 1940s elevator with carved wooden interior and a seat too. After all, royalty wouldn’t have travelled standing in elevators!

As the cool evening desert wind blows through the restaurant (this was in early March), Executive Chef Sonu Koithara briefs me on this open air restaurant, started only two years ago, which is operated only during winter as the summers are scorching hot in Jodhpur. During cooler climes, it’s a treat to watch the sun setting over the city, as you enjoy royal barbecues and international grills.

He says the royal cuisine includes dishes that originated from Rajasthan’s royal families, and includes a lot of jungle cuisine, and volunteers to make junglee maas for lunch. In an earlier era, when hunters went into the forests, their sidekicks carried utensils and masalas to cook the game of the day. “Those recipes - both from Marwar and Rajput regions - are truly unique and we have incorporated them into this restaurant,” he says.

Jungle cuisine

Jungle cuisine is based mostly on the tandoori concept and uses charcoal and clay oven. “The marinations are based on yoghurt, mustard and whatever masalas that were available.” Of course, Jodhpur’s trademark - and very, very spicy - Mathaniya chillies as well as yellow chillies are used a lot in these dishes, which mostly feature local ingredients. “Of course in those days they used deer and rabbit meat, but now that is illegal. So we use lamb instead of deer,” says Chef Koithara.

Moroccan lamb chops, made with Moroccan marination, are famous at this restaurant, but I opted for Kareli Gosht . This is lamb shank cooked in yoghurt, with yellow chilli powder and mild spices. Cooked on a slow flame, it takes three hours to be done completely, yet manages to retain the juice of the meat and tastes delicious.

Adding to the taste is the absolutely romantic ambience as the sky darkens, and the wind turns cold. This restaurant can seat 26, but “we can go up to 44 when there is demand,” says the Chef.

So, how popular is it? “Oh, we are full all the time. We don’t entertain non-resident guests as our priority is always resident guests, who are also advised to make a reservation.” The other two restaurants — Risala and the Pillars do allow local guests, with the minimum cover being Rs 2,000. “But there is so much demand that we are unable to meet all of it,” he smiles.

Most popular at the Sunset Pavillion are the Maas ka Soola (charcoal grilled lamb) and Bootas — sliced boneless meat cooked in a handi with mild spices. For vegetarians there is delicious paneer , and Sangri (a local berry) and mushroom kebabs and tikkis . “We also do a combination of cauliflower and broccoli with mustard marination. That is very popular, healthy and tasty.” Another favoured dish here is Corn Sheek Kebab .

But the surprise at this charming restaurant was Vegetarian Homemade Biryani. Now, hardcore non-vegetarians will call a Veg Biryani a contradiction in terms, but this was one of the tastiest dishes one ever had. Made with fragrant Basmati rice, this local recipe is akin to a Kabuli Pulao , and uses a lot of dry fruits and nuts. The spectacular view, the romantic lighting, the cool and crisp desert air, and the unique cuisine make this restaurant a clear winner. It is not difficult to see how Gaj Singh, a great foodie himself, got this concept absolutely right.

But the pièce de résistance of my culinary journey at Umaid Bhawan was Junglee Maas . Chef Koithara had heightened my expectations and teased my taste buds by saying how they used the old traditional hunter’s recipe for this unique preparation. “While hunting in the forest, they’d throw the meat into the pot with spices… crushed Mathaniya chillies, garlic, onions, and whatever else was available, leave it on low flame and go for more hunting.” By the time they returned, sometimes at the end of the day, the meat was ready. The Chef follows this tradition, but throws in a little yoghurt to make the spices milder, especially for the hotel’s western guests!

By the time the Junglee Maas — made of locally-sourced tender lamb — was served to me, it had been marinated overnight and cooked till it was so tender that the strands came apart at the touch of the fork.

The flavour of the spices permeate not only the taste buds but also the senses, and the combination of this unique delicacy with fragrant and perfectly done Basmati rice, garnished with slivers of fried onion, made me hastily discard the fork and savour the epicurean delight with my fingers. You have to sample the Junglee Maas -rice combo at Umaid Bhavan to rediscover the meaning of “finger-licking” good!

What completes the calorific challenge at this property is the breakfast at Pillars. After such elaborate and heavenly dining experiences, I marched to the open-air restaurant determined to atone with just fresh fruits, watermelon juice, a very healthy combo of beetroot and carrot juice, and, of course, masala chai . But alas, onto the table appeared, out of thin air, typical Jodhpuri breakfast delicacies.

Cauliflower-stuffed paratha , aloo kofta made with potato and cashew nuts, Mirchiwala lentil-stuffed kachori — all this served with fragrant fresh mint chutney, tamarind sauce, chilli and garlic pickle. The jeera , the ajwain , the pungent taste of the Mathaniya chillies, and the perfect degree of crispness to which they are fried, make these delicacies truly special… and sinful.

I have nothing to say in defence of the yet-again gorging session that followed. And once you give in to the senses, there is no looking back. So I ordered an idli and plain dosai . Both were good and it was time to return home - to Chennai!