I am an eighth generation Turk. I have lived in many places but Turkey calls me back,” says our guide Orçun Taran. After five days in Istanbul and Izmir, one can understand why.

Turkey casts a spell. Is it young or old, Asian or European, modern or traditional? It’s a bit of everything simultaneously. Take Istanbul, for instance. At first glance, it is cosmopolitan, full of high-rises and rush of traffic. But as one goes around, the ancient city of Constantinople (as Istanbul was once called) surfaces. Mosques and minarets (there are around 3,110 mosques in the city) are all around, giving the city a magical oriental feel.

Historic wonders

537 AD? That’s a long time ago. But recalling that period is the spectacular Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya in Turkish), the Church of Divine Wisdom built by Emperor Justinian. Hagia Sophia was hailed as the greatest church of Christendom. Mehmet the Conqueror proclaimed it a mosque after his conquest of Constantinople from the Byzantines in 1453. (Byzantium loosely refers to the ancient city founded by the Greeks on the Bosporus. In 330 AD, Roman emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, called it Constantinople, and made it his capital). Much later, in 1935, Ayasofya was made a museum. Today, it still stands a marvel. Spanning the height of Ayasofya from floor to dome leaves one a little dizzy. The essence of Islam and Christianity has steeped into its stones. Holy verses from the Quran are featured on the dome while mosaics of Christ can be seen on the walls.

With so many mosques around, why would one called ‘Blue Mosque’ stand out? It is unique because it has six minarets. It was commissioned during the rule of Ahmed I, and took seven years (1609 to 1616) to build. The story goes that the Sultan directed his architect to make gold ( altin ) minarets, which was misunderstood as six ( alti ) minarets. Popes have also visited this mosque.

What was used as an observatory, a prison, as a point to watch out for fires in the city, even for experiments in aviation? Galata Tower. Built as Christea Turris (Tower of Christ) in 1348 as part of expansion of the Genoese colony in Constantinople, it was to replace an earlier tower raised by Roman emperors. Today, thankfully, a lift takes you up most of the way. A little bit of huffing and puffing over winding stairs and you are there. It is a ‘top of the world’ feeling. The city is spread below in a panoramic view — not for those fearful of heights.

Can a magical place be without its share of opulent palaces? Bringing alive the grandeur of the Ottoman Turks is the Topkapi Palace, the royal residence of the Ottoman Sultans for around 400 years (1465-1856) of their over 600-year reign. The palace, which has a few main courtyards and many smaller chambers, is now a museum. It houses holy relics from the Muslim world, including Muhammed’s cloak and sword. You see the mother-of-pearl throne, water flasks made of gems and rubies, a quiver case studded with precious stones, apparently a gift for Nadir Shah…the exhibits are stunning, a rich study in red, green, and flashing diamond. The heart leaps at the next one — a green-and-red peacock throne, all the way from India. What strikes you is the care with which the treasures are being maintained today. Look all you want, but no touching, no clicking!

From the Ottoman period, go back some more in time and lo, there’s the Sultanahmet Meydanı (Hippodrome of Constantinople). Close your eyes, recall the chariot race in Benhur and then look around the square: You can visualise it as it would have been in the mid-fourth century — when it was the social and sporting centre of Constantinople. An entire superstructure has vanished underground and what one sees today are the few remnants that have survived.

If exile meant gracious villas and quiet roads on which only horse carriages moved, wouldn’t you love to be banished? That is the picture presented today by the Princes’ Islands in Turkey’s Marmara Sea. During the Byzantine period, royal rivalry resulted in princes being exiled to these islands. Buyukada, the largest of them, is just a ferry ride away from Istanbul. Easy access to the islands through the comfortable sea-bus (ferry) is a plus point. The beautiful homes here can be rented during the holiday season.

Bazaars and bargains

Travel isn’t complete without bazaars and bargains. Istanbul has many bazaars, including the spice market. Heaps of dates, raisins, figs, spice powders of many colours and flavours, and rolls of cinnamon assault your senses. It is tempting to buy whatever one sees, but Altug Dayioglu, our lively guide, cautions restraint. He tells us which shops are safe for what wares, at what rates, and then barks, “One hour.” But a mere 60 minutes won’t do. Besides spices, there are bags, clothes and souvenirs, including the charm to ward off the evil eye. The tulip flower motif (the tulip is believed to have originated in Turkey and exported to Holland) is widely used in the souvenirs.

If you feel like a brisk walk, Ishtiklal Street is the place. You can walk down the road, window-shop, absorb the sights and sounds of the city. Street performers put up great impromptu shows. Down the street is an old gracious church reinforcing Turkey’s multi-cultural heritage. Want to be at the happening spot? Then head for Taksim Square. People gather here in large numbers, be it for rallies or to spend time with family and friends.

Turkish is like...which other language? You strain the ears to catch the pitch and tone, the pronunciation. You expect it to be akin to Persian or Arabic, but it’s a surprise to learn that it is closer to the Finnish language. Some words are familiar — lal (red) and saboon (soap). Of course, the young speak more English..

Sexy city

Ancient city Smyrna, home of poet Homer and philosopher Heraclitus, is today better known as Izmir. A glitzy metropolis, it is less than an hour away by flight from Istanbul. With good hotels and shopping centres, it’s a big draw.

There is the charming Clock Tower, a natural meeting point. You can buy pigeon feed, throw a handful into the air, and feel a thousand birds take wing. The waterfronts are ideal to laze away the day. A must-see destination is Ephesus, with its Greco-Roman ruins. “Izmir is a sexy city,” says guide Altug, who hails from here. In a sense he reflects Turkish people today — modern but fiercely proud of their heritage.

Turkey is many things at the same time. It’s like a rich repast. The eye feasts, but one doesn’t know where to begin — or end!

Monuments and museums cannot sustain tourism as much as happy tourists. Turkey reinforces this. Places of tourist interest are accessible and well-maintained, the experience is well-packaged.

In 2012, tourism contributed approximately $9.3 billion to the country’s revenue, says Ozgur Ayturk, Culture & Tourism Counsellor of Turkish Embassy in India. In the same year, Turkey had 91,000 visitors from India — 24 per cent more than in 2011. “We are positive we will see the same or bigger growth rate in 2013 and cross the one lakh number,” says Ayturk.

Travel tips

Turkey is bordered by eight countries: Bulgaria, Greece, Georgia, Armenia, Iran, Azerbaijan, Iraq and Syria. A well-planned itinerary will take you places.

April-June and September-October are recommended generally. Walking shoes are a must. Summer and winter can be extreme, depending on the region.

The Turkish lira, euro and dollar are accepted. One Turkish lira is about Rs 31.

If you are looking for tasty but inexpensive fare, go for the roadside food joints. Vegetarian options are available — if you don’t see anything on the menu, a request to the chef will help.

Clean toilets are provided for — look out for signs that say ‘Water Closet’ or ‘WC’

(The writer was in Turkey at the invitation of the Turkish Culture and Tourism Office in India, Turkish Airlines and VIP Tourism)

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