As the thick rope cuts free and the launch sets sail, there is a hushed silence of anticipation. Will we sight the famous Royal Bengal tiger? The launch chugs across swathes of water. It is high tide, and most of the river embankments are under water, with the roots of mangroves visible underneath. The vast expanse of water actually consists of several rivers (Bidya, Matla among others) that intersect at various points, only discernible to locals.
As the tide ebbs, the looming forests of sunder , gorjon , kewra , dhudhul , goran , gewan and other mangrove varieties become visible. These are the timeless sentries that have protected Kolkata during cyclones. But even they proved powerless against the ferocious Aila in 2009 that caused irreparable damage to the Sunderbans islands.
Sightseeing on the river
The ideal time to visit this region is between September and February, when the rage of the dreaded
We manage to see pugmarks on the muddy banks (the tigers here swim and eat fish); two huge crocodiles sunbathing along with a young one which, alerted by the sound of the approaching launch, dived back into the river; deer, monkeys, monitor lizard and the Irawaddy dolphins mentioned extensively in
An eco-friendly holiday
The islands have numerous accommodation facilities, and I chose the Jungle Camp run by Help Tourism, which partners locals in efforts to protect the region's ecology. Located on the banks of the Bidya river, the cottages have been built in the local style, complete with a thatched roof. The rooms are smart and comfortable; the bathrooms clean. Solar energy is used in the evening after the generator is switched off (most villages in the region do not have electricity).
The food both at the camp and whenever it is cooked aboard a launch is simple but awesome. The fish is usually the fresh catch of the day, and the tiger prawns and crabs especially are big and tasty. The menu has been tweaked to accommodate a range of palates — both vegetarian and non-vegetarian (mostly chicken and fish), fusing local cuisine with outside influences. At breakfast, for example, we were served pancakes with date palm jaggery syrup and jungle honey.
Surviving a harsh environ
The resort employs about 35 people, including cooks and other help. The private launch operators are on call, while women from nearby villages work part time in the housekeeping and laundry sections.
Monika Manna, for example, earns about Rs 250 a month doing laundry at the camp during the peak season. She uses this money to buy books for her young son's schooling. Her husband is a farmer and they struggle to grow rice and vegetables after their land became more saline post-Aila.
Sunderbans is considered one of the harshest geographical regions in the world. The people here are extremely impoverished and depend on the rivers and forests for their livelihood, either as fishermen or woodcutters, the latter sometimes doubling as honey collectors too. The very rivers and forests that provide livelihoods also snatch lives. The people have to grapple with tigers, crocodiles and snakes, not to mention freak storms, to eke out a living.
Protector of the mangroves
Anxious to propitiate the divine powers that be, villagers worship Bon Bibi, who they consider the protector of fishermen and honey collectors. During a morning cruise I came across small idols of the deity tied to trees as offerings. There are also several shrines in the region.
The famous legend of Bon Bibi is enacted for tourists at the camp. The most important facet about this legend is that Hindus and Muslims join together in the worship of this very unique deity.