In the luxury segment of hospitality, where every hotel charges upward of $300-400 a night, there are givens that guests expect. The softest of beds, a tantalising “pillow menu” offering different kinds of stuffing and designed to suit the curve of your neck or the arc of your shoulders... The combination strives to induce sleep the moment the head hits the pillow. A cup of hot chocolate is often on offer to trigger the slumber that becomes more elusive as your ability to pay stiff hotel bills increases! A room with classical décor in pastel or warm shades, which please as well as soothe the senses, a large flat-screen TV, a DVD player, a dock for your iPod… in short, the works.

So it is the location of the property, along with the service the staff provide, that is the biggest differentiator.

At the stunningly located Taj Tashi in Thimpu, the breathtakingly beautiful capital of the Kingdom of Bhutan, this differentiator is the extra mile that General Manager Ravi Nischal and his team are willing to walk, to make your Bhutan experience special. In total harmony with its magical surrounding — green mountains with snow-covered peaks, deep-blue sky and clean, pollution-free air that lifts your spirits and mood instantly — this Taj property's exterior is designed like a traditional Bhutanese Dzong (a fortress-like complex). But blended into this traditional architecture is a modern, classical look in the rooms and suites. These are embellished with hand-drawn Buddhist murals, giving you an instant feel for the region's art, culture and colour. As in traditional Bhutanese buildings, here too the colour code revolves around beige, yellow and ochre, with a dash of maroon thrown in for some sparkle and radiance. The hotel's biggest USP is the breathtaking view it provides of the beautiful mountains with snow-covered peaks that rise majestically from the Thimpu valley. From your room or the restaurants, the mountains are always visible.

We are a group of Indian journalists hosted by the Taj Group of Hotels and Druk Air, Bhutan's national carrier, for a four-day stay in this mesmerisingly beautiful country, yet unspoilt by the footsteps of loud, uncaring and insensitive tourists.

Riverside picnic

The most memorable part of our stay, impossible to forget for a long time, was the picnic by the riverside the hotel arranged for us in Thimpu. The chill waters of the Thimpu Chuu ( chuu means water as well as river in Dzongkha, the local language) flowed on quietly on a day winter was ushering spring. We walked down a narrow dirt road, lined by thorny shrubs, for about 10 minutes to suddenly find a spectacular sight. An expanse of large white pebbles on the banks of the sparkling crystal-clear waters of the river, nestling in the shadow of beautiful mountains.

The picnic setting was already in place, with chairs and comfortable recliners placed within a tempting and tantalising distance into the cold but rejuvenating and refreshing river water. Off came our stockings, socks and shoes, and we splashed through the water to sprawl on the recliners and chairs, even as the enthusiastic hotel staff served us welcome drinks… wine, cocktail, or fresh fruit juice of your choice. The drinks were served and downed along with delicious Mediterranean mezze — hummus, tabouleh and other starters — offered with warm pita bread.

As live food counters offered a choice of delicious paav-bhaji , with the softest bread possible, pasta, chicken biryani , carrot halwa , chocolate desserts and an array of cut fruits, the hotel F&B team's effort in preparing this hot lunch for us became evident. What was more, our all-women group did not have to hunt for bushes to take a bio-break. Two makeshift, and yet comfortable, toilets with zip-up tents were in place!

High-end tourists

When I mention how wowed we were by the two outdoor picnics (the other one was set up at the spectacular Punakha Valley, also alongside a river, and with wines and pastas, excellent sandwiches and desserts), Nischal explains that the Taj Tashi is the first and only luxury hotel of its size (65 keys) in Thimpu. Tourism in Bhutan, where non-Indians, non-Bangladeshis and non-Taiwanese have to pay a daily fee of $250 per person, comes with a stiff price tag. Of course, this money is adjusted against their accommodation, food, and so on. “These high-end tourists are mainly looking for a cultural experience and outdoor, adventure tourism.” Because of its spectacular setting in the Himalayas, Bhutan is all about outdoors… trekking, riverside picnics and overnight hiking.

“So we are constantly striving to provide an exotic experience for our guests, and such picnics form part of the itinerary,” he says.

Bhutan is one of the rare spots in the world that has magically retained its pristine, natural beauty. Its government is very sure about promoting only high-end tourism. The $250-a-day fee is meant to ensure that. Good hotels across Bhutan, which has a population of 7 lakh, charge an average room rent of $300-400.

Taj Tashi has four luxury suites ($965 per night) and two dupleix suites ($770), where a spiral staircase takes you to your bedroom on the topmost floor, providing a 360-degree panoramic view of the Thimpu valley and the surrounding mountains. The rest of the rooms cost upward of $475. All rooms have wooden floors; in the washrooms, the stone and marble floors are warmed electrically.

Americans, Germans, Japanese and other Europeans are the main patrons of the Taj Tashi. But upper-end Indian tourists — who have finished the circuit of South East Asia, West Asia and even Europe, and are now looking for a very different, exotic holiday experience — are interested in Bhutan. “We now have about 15 per cent Indian guests, and are aggressively marketing Bhutan and our hotel to the high-end Indian tourist,” says Nischal. There is a huge interest, he adds, from the Indian market for wedding anniversaries, birthday celebrations and couples renewing their wedding vows in typical Bhutanese style. “We organise such events for our guests and help them dress in traditional Bhutanese attire.” For Indian travellers, Taj Tashi has a package on offer — $1,050 for a couple for three nights; this includes airport transfers and two days of sightseeing.

Donning the kira!

Well, helped by the Taj staff, we journalists also got a feel of the Bhutanese kira , the traditional dress for women. Dressed in elegant silk kiras , we sampled a delicious Bhutanese dinner — vegetable and pork momos , river-weed soup, delicious local red rice; mouth-watering, deep-fried aubergine with butter and garlic; minced chicken curry with local butter, garlic and spring onions; green beans and local chilli stew; potato and glass noodle curry; and a delectable Hazelnut-warm chocolate cake. The dinner was organised in a cosy, beautiful, traditional tent, with elegant Bhutanese dancers completing the experience. We were invited to the stone dance floor, shown a few steps and, with some great Sauvignon Blanc lifting the spirits, everybody joined in!

Ultimately, what stood out in our four-day stay at this beautiful two-acre property was the Taj brand of service; almost every review in the Trip Advisor talks about this. Says one, “I enjoyed 7-star service during my stay. One phone call and someone would come running to my room to make sure my wish is fulfilled. Pampering at its best. I have never ever been attended (to) so well, never, at any 5 star (hotel) I have visited.”

But providing such a service is a challenge. A country that prides itself on its Gross National Happiness index has also made it mandatory that people don't work beyond eight hours, a challenge in the hospitality industry. Another challenge Nischal faces is finding skilled staff, as Bhutan has no college for training hotel staff. “But the people here are extremely hardworking and willing to learn; only 14 of my staff are Indian and we constantly send batches of 7-10 people for training to different Taj hotels in India,” he says. What comes naturally to all Bhutanese is a genuine smile, extreme courtesy and a spontaneous warmth that make you feel welcome in their land.

rasheeda@thehindu.co.in

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