This is a palace hotel that has been the dream destination of many around the world; only a lucky few have been able to make it, sometimes keeping the dream alive for some 20 years.
One look at the enchantingly romantic Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur, shimmering like an exquisite, priceless jewel in the cool waters of Lake Pichola, blessed by a good monsoon this year, and I know why. The white marble edifice with its countless, intricately carved jharokhas (openings) and glittering chandeliers, delicate thekri and filigree work, intricate coloured-glass inlay and mosaic work and, of course, the signature Rajasthani leheriya patterns on the shining white-and-black, yellow and ochre marble flooring… it all comes together in a stunning, seductive whole. The gentle caress of the shower of red rose petals as you enter the palace gives a taste of the pampering in store.
Of course, the royal experience began right at the airport, where the choice was between a crimson 1947 vintage Chrysler and a Jaguar. I chose the vintage, and the baggage followed in the Jaguar! As the chauffer, Bahadur — who deftly manoeuvred the car through Udaipur’s streets, attracting admiring, envious looks — explained: “After all it is an old car, so it’s good to have a backup!”
After this royal welcome, I not so much walk as float towards my suite, the senses seduced by the gentle flow of water in the expansive lily pond, where once the Maharajas and their consorts played holi, watched dances and listened to music. My breathtakingly beautiful suite, named Sarva Ritu, in the zanana section once belonged to the Maharani. A sure-shot evidence of this is that the suite’s three jharokhas, now closed, lead to the Maharani’s private swimming pool. Each Taj palace property is distinctly different from the others, with its unique charm. The most fascinating aspect of Udaipur’s Lake Palace, completed in 1746, is the lapping water of the Pichola on all sides. No wonder it’s widely hailed as the most romantic luxury hotel in the world and the dream venue for proposals. Whether viewed from the all-day diner Jharokha — so named for its innumerable Rajasthani/ Mughal jharokhas embellished with mosaic and filigree, the courtyard, the terrace or the rooftop continental restaurant Bhairon, the sparkling water of Pichola cools the eye and soothes the senses.
From my room, too, the lake casts its magic through three large marble jharokhas preserved from the original palace structure. The jharokhas have a floral pattern in gold, repeated on the ceiling too, and along with the huge Belgian chandelier, which has seen three centuries sail by, give the room an imperial touch and feel.
Regal interiors
Exquisitely carved wooden cabinets, a rosewood-finish four-post bed, ornately patterned mirrors in the walk-in wardrobe and washroom, marble-top dining table resting on a single carved foot with the circumference done in wooden jali-work, and an ivory-inlay writing chair… all of these exude regal splendour.
The massive room was built in British style for the Maharani; her private swimming pool is now part of the spa. The hooks on the ceiling once held a massive cloth fan, which was operated by a man seated outside. The white-and-black marble used in theleheriya patterned flooring is from Makrana, and along with the exquisite miniature paintings, serves as a reminder that you are in the heart of Rajasthan. At the suite’s entrance, a floral decoration made of rose, jasmine and marigold petals emanates an enchanting fragrance.
History resides here
But more than anything else, history resides here. Through the jharokhas, and across the rippling water, I can see Udaipur’s famous City Palace, which houses the present Maharana, a spectacular museum and two heritage hotels. Work on this palace started in 1559 after Maharana Udai Singh shifted the Mewar Capital from Chittor to Udaipur. As many as 20 successive rulers have added to the structure, and today it dominates the skyline of this lake city, whose seven lakes are all manmade.
Ironically, Pichola, which embraces in its fold the City and Lake palaces, two other luxury hotels — Udaivilas and Leela Palace, the ultimate wedding destination — Jag Mandir Palace, all playing host to royalty, heads of State, celebrities, tycoons as well as others who have overstretched their pocket for a short stay here, was originally made by gypsies. They needed water to irrigate their land and blocked a monsoon river with a mud dam! Thanks to the magic they created, Udaipur has become famous as the Venice of the East.
The beginning
Popular legend has it — and most appropriately for an enthrallingly romantic place as this — that Jagat Singh II, the 62nd descendant of the royal dynasty of Mewar, built the lake palace as his pleasure place after his father, Jagat Singh I, put a firm end to his moonlight picnics with the women from his zanana in the neighbouring Jag Mandir Palace! Built on a 4-acre island bang in the middle of Lake Pichola, and against the backdrop of the majestic Aravallis mountains, it later became his summer palace — and was named Jag Niwas.
After two centuries, in 1963, Maharana Bhagwat Singh converted it into a hotel; and from 1971, the Taj took over. Rooms were added, renovated and refurnished, but with a strict eye on local history, architecture, arts and crafts. After running the place until 1995, the Taj took it on lease and carried out a major renovation. While the original flooring, chandeliers, lamps, fountains and so on were retained or restored, local artists were roped in to create additional decorative mirrors, ornate wooden tables, cabinets and chairs.
The property holds a delightful surprise at nearly every turn — the marble-paved corridors, courtyards, the terrace, gardens, lily pond, lamps and chandeliers, the lawn and fountains, patios, frescos, jharokhas, alcoves featuring intricate thekri, mosaic and glass-inlay work. All of them exude a fairytale, almost surreal feel. Even though the four large frangipani trees in the main courtyard have shed their flowers, the air is fresh and fragrant, and the gentle and cool wind from the lake is energising.
Octopussy tales
Every evening there is local folk dance and music. As the sun sets over the Pichola, a thousand candles are lit, casting a magic spell over the palace and its occupants. For in-room entertainment there is, of course, James Bond and Octopussy, the 1980s’ Hollywood blockbuster featuring Udaipur, playing on a giant TV screen. General Manager Shyam Kaikini says parts of the film were shot in 1982, parts of it at the Lake Palace. The James Bond actor Roger Moore, who played James Bond, stayed at the Shiv Nivas Palace, and “the whole of Udaipur was taken over by the crew for six months. They gave the shopkeepers Rs 150 a day to keep their shops closed and Rs 50 to the locals to be extras!”
There is a conscious attempt by the hotel to support the local community; besides employing local dancers and musicians, the hotel chef sources dhals from a local NGO and pappads from a women’s group. The candles are lit by local women; while one hearing challenged person works as a chef, another is in the engineering department. “We try and hire people locally; it’s part of the Tata legacy,” says Kaikini.
He thinks hospitality in the future will revolve around giving guests a takeaway from the local community, cuisine, culture, as also a meaningful experience to cherish. “The local people we recruit may not have perfect English, not having the opportunities we had. But we look for the right attitude. Once they have that, the warmth and the genuine desire to serve comes through, and the guests value that.”
Above all, he says, his guests remember the rose petal welcome, the boat journeys, and that everybody treated them like a maharaja or maharani!
But my special takeaway was a call from the security person, three hours after departure, that I’d forgotten a pair of ear rings, probably diamond. Sheepishly I told her those were from the cache of inexpensive, artificial Rajasthani jewellery I’d picked up from Udaipur’s bazaar. Trying them out hurriedly, I’d broken one and discarded the pair. But the call reinforced the Taj spirit of service and integrity.
Expectations and challenges
Arguably the most romantic and most photographed hotel in the world, and the second most photographed monument in India, this must be a hot destination for weddings, I ask Taj Lake Palace General Manager Shyam Kaikini.
“Actually we don’t do weddings,” is his surprising reply; “we have a clear positioning statement on that, even though Udaipur is now a big wedding destination.” The massive and iconic Jag Mandir is booked for weddings, and some rooms/suites are booked at the Lake Palace.
His guests find this a dream destination, with its unique location in the middle of a tranquil lake. One told him: “I saw the picture in a travel magazine 25 years ago and have wanted to come here since.” Another woman who had lunch here 20 years ago, returned for a one-night stay with her daughter. “It is all about meeting expectations and giving memorable, lifetime experiences to our guests. So we don’t want to give it out to just one group.”
This palace is the most famous for honeymoons and special occasions such as anniversaries, marriage proposals, birthdays. But challenges abound in both meeting expectations and managing a property on an island. “The location is a challenge… from the staff to fresh flowers, laundry, kitchen and hotel supplies, everything has to come by boat. Also, it’s a 266-year-old palace, so we have to work really hard to maintain it in its pristine condition.”
With the lowest tariff at Rs 30,000, and the Presidential suite priced a steep Rs 7 lakh (the discounted rate for my suite is Rs 1.15 lakh plus taxes), guests expect a spectacular experience and flawless service.
“They’ve read and heard so much, and paid so much, so there is a lot of pressure on us to deliver.”
Every nationality brings a different challenge; the British, “have experienced the Bangladeshi version of the Indian curry in London. They think the curry or chicken tikka masala is of one type, not realising that probably every Indian house has a different type of curry.” But once this is explained, they understand.
Well, if the Chicken Lawabdari I had, with the tomatoes and onions pureed by hand to retain the unique rough texture of the curry, was any indication, his guests will be returning home with higher expectations!
Another challenge is that with Udaipur being a small town, everything has to be procured from Delhi or Mumbai. And for a small hotel with 83 rooms — more than half are suites — even a 2 kg consignment of an exotic vegetable like ice lettuce has to be got daily from a metro, points out Executive chef Manish Joshi.
But from the reviews on Tripadvisor, it’s clear that Kaikini’s team is handling the challenges well. Guests rave about the rose petal shower, the romantic ambience, the great dining experience, the incredible service, the royal hospitality and the Taj brand of efficiency. More than one review said: “The worst thing about this hotel is leaving…”