Reinventing the saree

Walk across the length and breadth of India and you’re sure to see a million variations of the traditional Indian saree. From the prominent pallu used to cover the heads of women in the north to the unique drapes of the Kodavas in the south, from the lightweight Mangalgiris and Patolas to the heavy silk Kanjeevarams – India has a saree type for every region and culture.

There was a time when women wore only the saree and they did everything from household chores to conducting weddings draped in those exquisite six yards.

Yet, today, for the younger generations, the saree remains a traditional outfit, one that is saved for special occasions like weddings and festivals. Even the chiffon cocktail sari is brought out only when the dress code demands it. Whatever happened to this one-time wardrobe staple? Surely generations of women who lived in a sari can’t be wrong about the versatile six yards!

Well, today’s designers seem to be thinking along the same lines and between innovative drapes, unusual blouses and some out of the box thinking, each element of the sari has been re-thought and redesigned, giving the same old six yards a new breath of life. Read on and see why this year might just be the year the sari becomes the new staple.

Bettering the blouse

The most essential, albeit the smallest, part of the saree, is of course the blouse. Depending on the blouse, you can wear a sari in a million different ways, from a sexy backless bikini-style one to a prim and proper high-necked full sleeved one. Even the classic saree blouse is getting a makeover this season as different designers give it their own spin.

While the waist has always been the focus while wearing a saree, since the traditional blouse ends at the upper waist, some designers have come up with a few out of the box ideas that include – the tunic blouse. From peplum-bearing wispy blouses that went past the waist from Payal Pratap to tunic-length sheer blouses at Masaba’s show for Satya Paul, the little blouse just got more visibility!

The neck of the blouse too saw a myriad variations from the peter pan neck at Masaba for Satya Paul, printed bolero jacket style blouses at Dev R Nil, polo necked ones at Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s show – the basic saree blouse is basic no more. Rimi Nayak’s shirt-style blouse with the prominent collar too managed to give the saree a western twist without taking away from its charm.

Another trend that was spotted across designers was the addition of a jacket over the saree, covering the pallu. Drawing attention away from the pallu and towards the pleats at the waist, JJ Valaya got it right on the money with rich embroidered jackets worn over the saree. Anju Modi too went military style and teamed khaki trench coats and draped the pallu through the epaulettes – who would have thought of that!

Different drapes

Doing away with the notion that there is one perfect way to wear a saree, designers this year seem to be doing everything differently, and still getting it right. The classic saree petticoat seems to have toppled from its favoured position, giving way to everything from dhoti pants to hot shorts.

Draping the saree, too, seems to have been reinvented – starting with the trouser saree seen at Masaba’s show for Satya Paul. Palazzo pants with pleats that resembled a saree were teamed with suspenders and a full-sleeve printed blouse for a look that seemed to say the saree was now ready to take on the pant suits in the board room! Tarun Tahiliani draped the chunri saree over his signature dhoti pants, creating a saree look that had more fluidity and ease of movement.

Those looking for a more compact saree were not left disappointed either – Kiran Uttam Ghosh teamed her sarees with skin-fitted capris and cigarette pants while Shivan and Narresh brought out their famous Bikini Saree (or Sarikini, as its been nicknamed) a jersey creation with a sexy backless blouse and enough leg show to command attention next to a dress with a thigh-high slit. Nida Mahmood and Rahul Misra too bid adieu to the skirt and showed off some toned legs underneath the traditionally draped saree.

Say it with a sash

One newly invented saree accessory that seemed to get a lot of attention was the belt – from thin leather ones worn around the waist of compactly draped silk saree at Abraham and Thakore to a wide, silked Obi-style sash as seen at Anushka Khanna and Naeem Khan – the belt seems to be the saree’s new best friend. Defining the waist and keeping the pallu from sliding off, the belt gives the saree more structure and definition while creating a silhouette that’s closer to the fitted, western look.

The pallu is no longer leisurely draped along one arm and in need of constant attention – Dev R Nil draped their around the neck like a scarf while Abraham and Thakore did a double twist to cover the neck. Pleated and tucked under a fitted jacket or safely tucked away under a belt – the pallu can now be controlled, making the saree even more suited for a day on the run.

No longer can the saree be termed traditional – breaking all the rules and inventing new codes for dressing, the saree has started its journey back into the daily wardrobe. Choose from a dhoti-style drape to a more fitted silhouette – whatever the need, a saree will now see you through!

Expert Opinion:

Here’s what the designers themselves have to say about reinventing the saree to keep it fresh and modern – with some expert tips about how to personalize this trend to make it unique!

Masaba from Satya Paul

"The sari has been reintroduced for its new, younger wearer in silhouettes that can be worn effortlessly, like the divided trouser sari accessorised with suspenders for an experimental look.The traditional Indian garment is evolving in a way that is convenient and less time consuming to drape, whilst maintaining its feminine contour and look. For the girl on the run, the pallu can be taken around the neck and clinched together with a sharp jacket or a trench in the winters. My personal favourite at a cocktail/evening occasion would be an 80’s inspired full sleeves blouse, draped with a light, flirtatious sari!"

David Abraham from Abraham & Thakore

"The sari has always been an inspiration for fashion designers. At Abraham & Thakore we have looked at a sleek version of the sari as dress with a reference to the off-the-shoulder silhouette. I believe that the sari in different forms will continue as an elegant dress up option for younger wearers."

Debarun Mukherjee

"Sari is an eternal part of Indian culture and tradition. It is a unique identity of Indianess. There are very few outfits in world where five and a half yard of fabric is draped differently in such a variety of elegant styles. As the Japanese have kept their kimono alive, so will young Indians keep their sari alive. It can have a very minimalistic approach, which was part of my look for be you collection at Lakme Spring/Resort 2013."

Tarun Tahiliani

"Layering and traditional colours will always be on trend. Concept sarees have caught on. I think they are the new idioms of style. To keep the saree feeling fresh the studio plays with new ways of using fabrics and colours. Innovative concepts and designs are introduced to style silhouettes which are contemporary and easy to wear. Layering and other techniques are used but with an added element of lightness and weightlessness making it easier for the modern woman to wear."

elizabeth.mathew@thehindu.co.in