Though it was summer and the Alps were not exactly snow-clad, they still formed a perfect backdrop to our 12-day Switzerland trip, which we started in Zurich. There was no particular reason for choosing Zurich but we were glad we did, because it set the tone for the rest of the holiday which took us to Lausanne, Bern, Basel and Geneva, as also a daytrip across the border to France.
The trick, obviously, is to avoid the touristy places. We had a vague itinerary and a few ‘must-sees’ on our list (Geneva and Bern), but other than that we only had a Swiss travel pass and a comfortable pair of walking shoes. We relied a lot on the Swiss tourism offices. All of them are well-versed about the country, speak fluent English and offer suggestions which you can follow blindly, assured that you will get a real feel of the country, its culture and cuisine.
Like we did. A helpful person at the Zurich tourism office recommended the restaurant Zeughauskeller for local cuisine. The place was bustling, had a menu in English and, much to our surprise, also served vegetarian dishes.
Besides the sausages and
Zurich boasts quaint charm. Old architecture vies with modern sleek structures, as do the trams with the swanky buses and trains. A tram is an ideal mode of transport as it meanders through lanes and by-lanes, climbs small hills and races down mountain tracks.
One day, simply tired with all the walking, we hopped onto a tram which took us to the zoo — a famous destination in Zurich. The ride took us from the centre of town, past the Lindt chocolate factory and Zurich University, and deposited us at the zoo, which is perched atop a hill. Seduced by the surrounding beauty and the meticulously laid-out tracks, we decided to skip the zoo and simply walk around; and we weren’t the only ones.
Like many other cities in the region, Zurich too has an old town. But there’s nothing really “old” about them as many of the old architectural buildings have fancy boutiques selling apparel and jewellery. Of course, some of them have an even greater appeal, like the old town in Bern which boasts Einstein’s house.
On a rain-soaked day, we made our way to Einstein’s house. And what a rip-off it proved to be! Yes, there’s the house amidst a row of shops selling curios and snacks on a cobbled road. But the house is now a restaurant serving soft drinks and snacks. All the plates and cutlery, even the table napkins and serviettes, sport the genius’s name, but that is all there is to it. We saw the place being used more for its restrooms — free, of course.
The Parliament in Bern, however, was an eye-opener. You can walk anywhere in and around the building. Though it was closed that day, a friendly local told us it was not uncommon to find oneself seated next to the country’s President, sipping coffee in the cafeteria.
In comparison, Lausanne provided the best in picture-postcard beauty. The train ride from Zurich passes through breathtaking scenes of lush green fields, cows and buffaloes grazing on well-maintained pasture land, and quaint houses dotting the landscape. Climbing to the high-altitude destination, the train provides stunning views of the lake below and the surrounding mountains.
In Geneva, the lake and the highest man-made fountain are a bit of a letdown after all that one has heard about them; but the entire UN area is an experience in itself. The high point is the “broken chair” — a symbol of the fight against landmines, created by Swiss artist Daniel Berset.
The best part about Switzerland, though, is the ease with which you can move from one city to another or, for that matter, to France, Italy and Germany simply by hopping onto a train. All you need is a Swiss travel pass, easily obtainable in India, and you can use any mode of transport — rail, road, and water. Moreover, to get to other European Union countries you only have to buy a ticket and hop across with ease.
The concept of ‘no boundaries’ struck us when we went to Basel. A good two-hour walk in the city and we had taken in all the sights — the churches, old city and the big shopping malls. When it was time to head back to the station for a train to Zurich, we realised we were lost. When we asked a local for directions to the train station, his question was something of a shocker: “Do you want a train to Germany or France?”
We made use of this easy access when from Geneva we boarded a train to Lyon in France. There was nothing to tell us we had crossed over from one country to another - not the landscape, the people or even the buildings. The fact that both German and French are spoken in Switzerland add to this feeling.