The comforting smell of fresh mawa cakes and hot, strong tea, just-baked buns and the noisy chatter of Parsis, young and old — are all disappearing. The quintessential “Bombay cafes” are shutting shop now, after decades of flourishing in the city.

Known as ‘Irani’ hotels, as they were run by people who migrated from Iran or Persia (Parsis), these small cafes were managed by successive generations are fast vanishing and, with them, a unique part of Mumbai is being lost forever.

While the city is on a modernising spree, the old and dusty Irani Cafes are institutions that everyone hopes will remain unchanged. Enter the Irani hotel, and soak in the atmosphere of peeling walls, dusty cabinets, white baniyan- clad person sitting counting notes at the cash counter. With glass tables and hard, wooden chairs, the scene has remained the same for many generations. From little food shops to trendy pubs, and Iranis to Starbucks, the city had found its balance. But now, unfortunately, it’s tilting more towards the new than the old. First, the exit of the double-decker BEST buses; then came the demise of Premier Padmini cabs, redevelopment of heritage buildings and now, Irani cafes shutting shop — this need to be seen as ‘global’ is making Mumbai fast lose its niche. Being a Mumbaikar , I have been witness to this change and, while some are for the good, many are not. Yet I can understand why the city is changing. The Iranians came to the city some 150 years ago and opened cafes which served all, regardless of their profession and community.

The combination of fresh cakes and breads, hot tea and scrumptious Irani cuisine, which drew people to the cafes in dozens, are now available everywhere. Today, the few Irani cafes are in hot-spots across the city. The younger Parsis can easily earn crores of rupees by just selling that spot to a builder. The future can be seen. A prominent South Mumbai Irani, New Empire, shut shop a decade ago, giving way to McDonalds. Recently, another famous 100-year-old Irani, B. Merwan and Company, announced its closure. Established in 1904, Kyani and Co in Mumbai, is the oldest operating Irani café and hopefully will continue to survive the changes of time. In this fast-changing city, the race to be the first is making Mumbai lose its identity.

Over the years, I have realised that with its change of name, Bombay has transformed into a busier, bustling Mumbai. The old city has now become a modern, rapidly developing melting pot of cultures. And the modern Mumbai needs to create an identity of its own.

Iranis are a relic of Bombay. Double-deckers and vintage ambassador cabs too are a thing of the past. But there’s barely any time to feel sad about this transition. After all, who has a minute to spare in Mumbai?

(The author is a Mumbai-based freelance writer.)

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