As someone going on a short trip from Mumbai to Israel, the perception of threat was high. Especially so, since it was after the 26/11 terror attacks in the financial capital, where one of the six locations under siege by the gunmen was a low-profile Jewish spiritual centre.
But there we were, landing at the airport in Tel-Aviv in the wee-hours of the morning. Take a taxi to the hotel, it’s safe, we (a group of less-than-a-handful of mediapersons) were told.
Except for the long security checks to get in and out of the country, it seemed like any other, with beaches and a night-life. And yet, something was different. Conversations often veered towards politics and the constant overhang of threat, arising from the region’s potent mix of history and faith.
But for those scientifically-minded, this is a country renowned for its innovation, just as it is for its intelligence or homeland security solutions. So there were interactions with start-ups doing fascinating work in deep-brain stimulation, conversations on the ingestible camera-in-a-pill; the famous drip irrigation systems and visits to a water desalination plant. For those from a generation when social media was just taking baby steps, remember the ICQ messenger? They all trace their roots back to this country.
On the security front, the need to always be ahead of someone looking to create trouble was explained, with gadgets and innovative technology. A message that struck home for those from Mumbai, having witnessed terror strike at places that were all too familiar. Going through West Bank, slowly the realities and complexities people faced on both sides of the troubled divide begin to sink in.
Indelible mark
But it’s the visit to Jerusalem that leaves an indelible mark on one’s being. The churches, mosques and the Wailing Wall, all located not too far from the other and soaked in history — a confluence of religions and faith which should have been maintained as a protected site of peace in the world.
We were told people from across the world flock to the region, paying their respects at the sites of faith and haggling at the Arab-run shops to take home memorabilia. There was the constant effort to show there was peace in the region, fragile as it may be.
All that, however, changed dramatically this October-weekend, on a holy day as it was 50 years ago during the Yom Kippur attack. Violence, destruction and death have erupted in the region, again, leaving behind a trail of dismembered families, husbands, wives, children…and we don’t even hear of pets.
An endless circle of violence and grief, that does no one any good. And this time, the disturbing medieval savagery of the violence is relayed to the world by social media.
As politicians, historians and bystanders discuss the history and geopolitics of the region, there will be many going to bed every night not knowing what has become of their loved ones.
And that brings back some gentler memories from the visit years ago — where prayers of multiple faiths wafted into the evening air at the old city, giving the region its indisputable spiritual identity. An identity the world should have helped protect. Instead, stands a cauldron of strife and grief.
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