Deeg in Rajasthan has few visitors due to its desolate location and dilapidated surroundings. But among discerning travellers it is considered one of the most beautiful monsoon destinations of the country. It is a composite assortment of buildings, constructed by erstwhile royalty, with an appealing amalgamation of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles.
“While the location of Deeg does not have the romantic allure of the mega palaces of Udaipur or Jaipur, its small symmetric structure surrounded by waterbodies and lush gardens is extremely charming,” says Tulsi Ram with pride. He is one of the 32 multi-tasking staff (MTS) who look after this historic edifice, which is under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The designation of MTS was given two years ago after the colonial titles like gardener, power-man, water-man, monument attendant were dropped. Tulsi Ram and his band of brothers have been safekeeping the monument since the 1970s.
Energetic and known for his diligence, Tulsi Ram, 58, has been in this job for 40 years. Born and brought up in Augad, a small village barely a kilometre from Deeg lake-palace, he recollects how as a young boy it took him 15 minutes to walk to the Deeg gardens, where he played regularly with his friends.
He initially starting working as a casual labourer at the monument and after 10 years, in 1986, was inducted into ASI as a permanent employee. His first earnings were just ₹858 a month, but with ASI his pay packet tripled.
Now he earns around ₹45,000 a month. “My two daughters are married but both my sons, who are degree-holders, have no jobs,” he says ruefully.
Palace amidst roses
Deeg is a sleepy municipality of Bharatpur district, located 222 km from Delhi. Because of its strategic location and proximity to Bharatpur (35 km), Mathura (40 km) and Agra (90 km), Deeg was vulnerable to attacks by invaders in the past. Spread over 54 acres in a quadrangular site is the Deeg lake-palace.
“Deeg was used by the then rulers both as a summer and winter resort,” explains Surendra Sandu, who looks after the property’s 12 acres of gardens.
He regrets that the original rose garden and mango orchid have disappeared due to increased salinity in the groundwater; now only a few old trees like teak, banyan, molshree, tamarind and peepal remain.
Tulsi Ram recalls the visit of Indira Gandhi to Deeg when she was prime minister. The late leader was presented a single red rose instead of a bouquet. This was because each of the magnificent roses in the Deeg gardens was over six inches wide and a bright shade of magenta.
“The role of the ASI horticulture branch is to create micro-climatic conditions and enhance the ambience with the introduction of flora that matches the monuments. At Deeg, the workforce is doing an exemplary job despite the paucity of quality water,” says Naresh Chand, Deputy Superintending Horticulturist in Delhi, who oversees Deeg and nearly 200 other monuments.
Fountains of colour
The lake-palace is flanked by two reservoirs and water is pumped to an overhead six-lakh-gallon tank to feed an elaborate fountain system, explains Tulsi Ram. An intricate underground network of clay pipelines feed coloured water to 1,000 fountains in what is considered a marvel of engineering. Unlike in the times of the maharajas, when the fountains were in use regularly, today visitors are treated to the incredible sight just twice a year. The next colourful spray is slated for August 21. Unfortunately, the fountain shows are routinely marred by unruly crowds, booze brawls and graffiti gamers.
“Deeg lake-palace was used by the maharajas till the mid-1970s, after which the ASI took over for conservation. Gopal Bhawan, the biggest building here, is now a museum. In 1972, the movie Siddhartha was shot in Deeg, as were Mughal-e-azam and Noorjahan ,” says Tulsi Ram.
He is saddened that despite the monument’s growing popularity, it is beset by problems of water quality and the lack of development in the surrounding areas. “We do not have a decent hotel or eatery for tourists who throng the lake-palace. I hope to see Deeg develop into a distinguished destination before my retirement.”
The writer is a photographer and wildlife enthusiast based in Noida