A bibliophile’s delight

L et us first lure you in — when in Leuven expect a 600–year–old university, Stella Artois Brewery, a Gothic town hall and a town square that is dotted with local breweries and bars. Now studying in a town like this, would be a dream come true.

As you get off at the train station and make your way towards the city centre, you will notice that everyone around looks under 30 (or less). The vibe of this student town is sure to make you feel nostalgic for your first day at college. As we strolled through Bondgenotenlaan (one of the main streets of the city), we received friendly smiles from students cycling around as we passed by the tiny cafes and quirky lifestyle stores. While the afternoons are pretty laid back, the scene changes as evening clicks in.

Get touristy

The best way to explore Leuven is by foot. Start off from the Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein, which is a large square at the city centre. Today it hosts flea markets and many cultural activities to bring the city together. The structure was, however, designed in collaboration with KU Leuven of Leuven University. The backdrop to the square is that of a neoclassical university library, which adds to the grandeur. While the library looks magnificent from the outside, inside it hosts an exhibit on the lower floor where you can learn more about the structure and how it survived the two World Wars. But best of all is the reading room which is utterly surreal for a bibliophile. The bell tour makes sure that you don’t get lost in the books and keeps chiming every hour. The bird’s-eye-view of the city from the top-storey balcony is also a must, especially on a Friday while the market fills up the Ladeuzeplein.

The marketplace: The Grote Markt (Grand Place) at Leuven has two signature buildings—the Town Hall and St Peter’s Church

Local spirit: When in Belgium, you pair all of your meals with the local brews

The Grote Markt (Grand Place) at Leuven has two signature buildings — the Stadhuis or Town Hall is Leuven’s pride and joy, and St. Peter’s Church, which dates back to more than 1,000 years. Both are a must visit to understand the history of the city.

Downtown

When in Belgium, you make sure you pair all your meals with the local brews in the city. But if you aim to try out each of the brews made in each city, you probably will spend enough time to get a graduate degree. Leuven’s Oude Markt is also called ‘The longest bar in Europe’. It’s a large square that houses nothing less than 70-odd bars on all sides. From breweries to pubs, to fine dining restaurants to pocket-friendly options, the bars here have something for everyone. These are housed on the ground floor of a bunch of art deco buildings, which also serve as dorms for the students. Most of these watering holes have signs that display special student discount that yet again make you a bit jealous for not being a student. A few of the must try ones include De Rector, Den Brosser, Café Belge, and De Bierkelder. But trust us, you can just go and lounge at any bar here, and you will have a great time.

The birthplace of Stella Artois

Back in India, we consider the bar to be well stocked if they offer Stella Artois on tap. Not many may know the origins of this Belgian brew. Leuven is home to the Stella Artois brewery, and you must not miss a tour at their brewery that was established in 1366. During the course of your tour here, you will learn about this six-century old beer and also enjoy the pint at the end of it.

The university

Now about the central attraction of this place — the University of Leuven is one of the largest in Belgium. The Katholieke Universiteit Leuven (KU Leuven) was founded in 1425, and is linked with everything in the city, whether hospitals or museums. A visit to the University Hall is a must. The hall has been converted into small museum with a bar tucked away in the corner. You could get yourself a drink of your choice and enjoy the hustle of the students inside. There are a couple of highly recommended restaurants too in the vicinity, such as EssenCiel by Chef Niel Brants, Domus that should make it on your travel itineraries for a hearty meal and beer. To enjoy the spirit of Leuven, De Werf is your best bet in my humble opinion.

Away from it all: The reading room of theUniversity of Leuven

The Flanders region of Belgium used to be famous for settlements for the beguinage community where women who are single, and widowed women who did not wish to become nuns, would work and contribute towards the society. There are over 300 houses that house the community. Leuven’s Great Beguinage is one of the most charming areas in the city. It will transport you to the 1980’s with its narrow lanes, bridges across Dyler River, tiny squares and a gothic church with stained-glass windows.

A moment of peace: The University of Leuven, the largest in Belgium is Leuven’s central attraction

Kasturi Gadge is a Mumbai-based journalist