Poetry in time

Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie or SIHH, one of the two most important watch fairs in the world, launched a bundle of stunners recently in Geneva. For over two decades, SIHH has been an invite-only affair, where journalists and watch traders are invited by the host brands. This year, for the first time in the history of SIHH, the fair opened its gates to all watch enthusiasts.

SIHH’s list of participating brands is increasing every year, bringing in more diversity. This year many brands appeared to pursue millennial watch collectors, who want to own a piece of luxury watch that complements their personality. Brands revealed designs that are young and sprightly, watches that present the complex engineering of horology in a manner that today’s collectors would not just admire, but also enjoy playing with.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt Roger Dubuis was started by a master watchmaker in 1995 to manufacture unique, haute horologerie designs. This year at SIHH, Roger Dubuis’s confidence has reached a new level of modernism. The Excalibur Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt looks straight out of a Transformers movie, flexing its muscles with the hand-wound 590-part RD101 Quatuor movement. This movement beats at a frequency of 16 Hz (115,200 vph) with its four sprung balances spread around the watch, ensuring that the gravitational force has little impact on the watch’s accuracy to tell time. Before we talk about the gorgeous blue colour, take a look at the industrial design of the watch borders. This high-performance cobalt chrome alloy, clothing the 48 mm-diameter case is produced using the MicroMelt technology associated with aeronautics.

HYT Skull Pocket The HYT Skull Pocket takes the brand’s signature and contemporary style of watchmaking to newer heights. At a time when watch wearers are going ‘smart’, HYT has decided to go vintage with a pocket-style creation. Its signature style of watchmaking uses fluid to tell time, and the skull watch also follows suit, using a complex liquid to indicate hours. The mechanical power from the winding of the crown is converted to electrical energy that bathes the Skull Pocket in a soft blue light.

Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Pin-up Ulysse Nardin is one of the oldest watch brands, founded in the mid-19th century. Two centuries on, its novelties continue to be invented with the same enthusiasm. It is known for timpieces with erotic themes. Ulysse Nardin’s new limited edition Hourstriker Pin-Up watch is an alluring addition to the manufacture’s line of Hourstriker watches.

In the Pin-up watch, a sensual burlesque dancer is seen adorned with peacock feathers. As time passes, the comely curves of the dancer are revealed by the hourstriker function. Dramatic revelations by the burlesque dancer come alive on the hour, the half-hour and whenever the wearer activates the push-button. Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Pin-up watch runs on a self-winding movement. It has a decent power reserve of approximately 42 hours and can resist water up to 30 metres. The playful watch is available in a limited edition series, produced in rose gold and platinum.

Panthère Joueuse de Cartier Cartier has probably already made hundreds of watches dedicated to the brand’s favourite wildcat. At SIHH, connoisseurs were treated to yet another caricature of the panther, a playful one this time. The panther dominating the ‘Joueuse de Cartier’ women’s watch is not just ornate, but plays a functional role in telling time.

When the observer is not struck by the glamour of the 185-carat diamond-studded dial, it is truly enjoyable to see the panther play with the ball, to tell time. There are no hands on the watch that indicate hours and minutes. Instead, the panther’s paw points at the minutes, while a ball, also in diamond-set 18-carat white gold indicates the hour reading at that moment.

Van Cleef and Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate This Van Cleef and Arpels watch is akin to a beautiful fantasy. The animated butterfly and shine of the diamond-laden watch can brighten any gloomy day for the wearer. The summery women’s watch from Van Cleef and Arpels runs on a self-winding movement — in other words, the watch winds-in more mechanical power when the wearer moves the wrist adorning the watch. The hour and minute hands sit pretty against the bucolic backdrop. Like in nature, a butterfly erratically sits on the dial and flutters every now and then to snag the monotony of passing time.

Shilpa Dhamijais the founder of LuxuryVolt.com