Sorry, no sari

Nearly every celebrated designer in India is adding a variety of gowns to their wedding collections this year. Designer Gaurav Gupta, much valued for his creative geometric gowns, has taken inspiration from enchanted forests for the 2017 bride. Shyamal and Bhumika have carefully maintained the look of a traditional bride by creating designs in wedding-favourite jewel tones of red, dark green and gold, in easy-to-wear floor-length gowns.

“In India, women traditionally would not wear gowns as much as saris for their wedding traditionally. So when we married gowns with saris, it became popular at a global level. Our gowns are reflective of the times we live in. They’re sexy and traditional,” said designer Gupta. “It is extremely convenient to wear gowns because one just has to zip it up and not spend too much time draping the sari. Gowns give a good shape to the body and speak a lot about the new India,” he added.

Gupta has drawn inspiration from mythical sculptures to define his silhouettes. For the winter bride, his gowns have a beautiful balance, with innovative detailing and elegant cuts. The indigenous embroideries are inspired by dense foliage and forest cover. The borders of his gowns don’t just sit like a pretty umbrella on the brides’ feet. They playfully coil with turns that a spirited bride would love. “Every lace and embroidery has been developed in-house. We make the garments lightweight despite the detailed work. We give newer forms to cancan and layers in our gowns. This is where a lot of our technical research has gone in,” said Gupta.

There are usually layers of drape and faceted construction to be found in couture gowns, yet some designers felt the need to keep it simple, and rightly so. Gowns by Shyamal and Bhumika are the perfect combination of traditional lehengas and stress-free outfits. “Millennial brides, especially those from abroad have visualised themselves in Western silhouette wedding gowns since childhood. By catering to them, we have ensured that they feel connected to their roots. We creatively paired traditional Indian aesthetics to their dream ensemble,” explained Shyamal.

Shyamal and Bhumika have used Indian embroidery techniques for the gowns. Gold thread-work and intricate embellishments on the bodice turn up the volume on traditional vibes. From choosing the colours to the intricate inlay of peeta or zardozi, crystals, beads and sequins, these couture pieces cater to different tastes and style, and each piece is unique. Shyamal elaborated, “Our latest collections, ‘The Merchant Princess and ‘The Princess’ Soiree’ have floor-length gowns in emerald green, sangria red, royal blue, and even all gold, making these garments stand out in the array of wedding wear.” Some brides look for an intricately designed ensemble in monotones while some want Western silhouettes in traditional hand-embroidery.

Monisha Jaising’s ‘Posh in Shoreditch’ collection draws design cues from the past, but is envisioned for empowered women of the present day. “I absolutely love this transition, of brides choosing comfort over design. My design philosophy has always aimed at projecting a modern and carefree bride who would like to wear fuss-free, easy and edgy clothing,” she affirmed. The collection flaunts crystal-embroidered pastel hues.

Jaising’s gowns are a fantasy, floating through perfectly-strewn layers of fabric. “There is a particularly exquisite gown from my collection that is derived from our classic graphic embroidered patterns. It is a lightweight and attractive ensemble with a flowy rose gold trail. In this collection, I have used a new approach in my silhouettes.These are unbelievably soft, and hence comfortable to wear, and yet create a sense of grandeur, to make a statement”, declared Jaising, signing off.

Shilpa Dhamija is the editor of LuxuryVolt.com