What’s the first image that comes to your mind when you think of a smart-watch? A small LED screen that simply mirrors information from smartphones and tells time the usual way? While most geeks might be content with today’s ‘Beam me up, Scotty’ devices, a bunch of independent Swiss watchmakers are redefining the smart-watch concept for those who dare to be distinctive. Neither connected to a smartphone, nor relaying information from one, these smarter and truly futuristic timepieces will demolish the lingering image of Swiss artisans as being conservative.

Imagine, for example, a watch powered by liquid! The Pharaohs used water clocks. Nearly 3,400 years later, horologists have created wristwatches that defy gravity to tell time using reservoirs of liquid.

Back to the future Called Hydro Technology or HYT watches, they rely not on any computerised chip but have a mechanical mind of their own instead. Vincent Perriard, CEO of HYT, explains that the technology was inspired from the 3000 BC water clock Clepsydra, which had two flexible reservoirs with a capillary attached at each end. One contained an aqueous liquid with fluorescein in it, while the other held a viscous transparent liquid. What kept them apart was the repulsion force of the molecules in each fluid.

How did this device tell time? “The hours are indicated by the coloured fluorescent aqueous liquid released from a flexible reservoir compressed by a piston. These reservoirs, or bellows, are located at six o’clock and are made from a supple electro-deposited alloy. The first coloured liquid travels through the capillary, pushing back the transparent viscous one into its own reservoir and then returning to its original position at six o’clock in what is referred to as a retrograde manner.”

The HYT team works with NASA suppliers in the US for its watch parts. The company has crafted several limited-edition watches for a waiting list of connoisseurs. The price: ₹35 lakh onwards. Yes, they sell in India too!

“A new era of watches has dawned,” declares Perriard.

Indeed a new era for Swiss watches with more than one ground-breaking idea. Maximilian Büsser & Friends, or MB&F, is another independent brand that is in demand for unconventional, smarter watches. Founder, Maximilian Büsser insists it is not just a brand. “It is a concept lab where we deconstruct traditional, very high-end watchmaking and reconstruct it into amazing pieces of 3D kinetic art.” Launching MB&F — his ‘dream project’ — after several successful years as Managing Director of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, Büsser only recently managed to bring it to India, a country close to his heart, since his mother is an Indian.

Horological Machine Number 6, aka ‘Space Pirate’, is one of my favourites from MB&F. Though not their latest, it perfectly defines what MB&F stands for. In each of the four corners of HM6’s biomorphic case is a 360° sphere. Right in front are two semi-spherical indications that display hours and minutes in large, legible numerals. On the reverse are twin spherical turbines that spin to power the winding system, to reduce stress and wear in case of excessive speed.

At the centre is a dome for a 60-second flying tourbillon, the precision regulator of HM6’s engine. The flying tourbillon is functional, of course. The fact that it looks sensational is a bonus. Any Space Pirate would expect protection from the harsh rays of the sun. Team MB&F has added a retractable, semi-spherical, titanium protective shield to protect the machine’s lubricating oils. A crown at 9 o’clock opens and closes the cover in — and like — the blink of an eye.

Crafted to perfection “It takes about four years from first sketch to delivery. Any MB&F watch takes about 2,500 to 3,000 hours of work to complete in the purest tradition of high-end artisanship,” says Büsser.

These futuristic timepieces are not made for every watch-wearer. “Our clients are self-assured personalities who do not care if no one recognises or understands what they wear. Contrary to people trying to show off,” Büsser declares. Both HYT and MB&F are showcasing their newest creations for 2016 at the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva this month. For the first time SIHH has nine independent brands, including names like Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Panerai and others from Richemont group.

HYT will unveil HYT H2 Tradition. “In 2016, we want to highlight the traditional watchmaking with our H2 series. But we are also launching the new liquid colour that took three years to develop,” says Perriard.

MB&F has already announced the launch of the Platinum version of its very popular Legacy Machine 101 for SIHH 2016. “Expect eight new product launches in 2016!” adds Büsser.

Shilpa Dhamija is the Editor-in-chief of LuxuryVolt

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